My drive looks like it is corroding. Is there anything I can do?

Corrosion can be caused by many factors. Here are a couple of important starting points.

- Make sure that a correct anode is used for the water in which the boat is being used. See chart below.

- Inspect the anodes. If an anode is 2/3 of its original size (1/3 eroded), replace it.

- Make sure the anode (s) doesn't have poor contact with the drive since this will cause corrosion.

- Inspect that anodes hasn't been painted since this will make the galvanic corrosion protection ineffective.
- Inspect the paint on the drive. Once the paint is breached and water gets at the metal, it will start corroding. Since the size of the recommended anode is tested on an original drive you will have to increase the size of the anode to get optimal protection. Repaint the drive according to the laying up and launching chapter in the Operator's manual.

- If an anode looks yellow or is covered with white crust the anode has most certainly been pacified. If this happened brush the anodes using sandpaper or an emery cloth. Note, never use a wire brush with steel bristles. You have to use an emery cloth without iron oxide otherwise the anode might be pacified. Be carefull reusing yellow zink anodes since they sometime are not possible to brush up and make work again.

- If your anodes seem to disapear rapidly in salt water it is possible to increase the protection by using a so called zink fish while your boat is docked. A zink fish is a big anode which you use combined with the anode on your drive. A zink fish must be grounded to respective protection area. If you use shore power disconnect. If this dont work contact a dealer to make a control.
Anode Material Water condition
Transom shield Zinc Salt water
Sterndrive Zinc Salt water
Transom shield Aluminium Brackish water
Sterndrive Aluminium Brackish water
Transom shield Magnesium Fresh water
Sterndrive Magnesium Fresh water